All of my backpacking experiences have involved either mountain treks surrounded by conifers or sandy, desert terrain swallowed within red rock canyons. The Trans-Catalina Trail (TCT) became my first island backpacking adventure, and it certainly will not be my last! Mesmerizing 360 degree views of the ocean certainly put me in my place, enabling me to realize just how vast Catalina Island truly is and how grand of a hike my husband and I were about to undertake.
Preparation and Planning
When to Go
I received several recommendations prior to hike the TCT either in the fall or spring due to ideal weather conditions. Winter can bring about an abundance of rain and closed roads/trails, while summer temperatures and the fully exposed trail can make the trek exceptionally brutal.
Our journey took place over Halloween weekend, which also granted us surreal views of a Blue Moon lit sky. Fun fact, this had been the first full moon on Halloween in all time zones in 76 years. That had to be a good omen, right? It seemed to be, as our conditions were absolutely perfect both night and day.
** Tip: Keeping an eye on upcoming weather conditions is crucial before embarking on the trip. When in doubt, call the Catalina Island Conservancy at 1-310-510-2595 for trail information.
How to Get There
Island adventures equal boat travel… another added bonus to taking on the TCT. The Catalina Express and the Catalina Flyer are the two main transportation companies that land in Catalina within an hour or so depending on the departing port.
We took the Catalina Express... and during the COVID pandemic. Though going into it a bit nervous and definitely cautious, we were very pleased with the protocols in place, the kindness and support of the crew, and the cleanliness of the boat. Check-in, loading, and departure were all smooth sailing (slight pun intended), and we’d certainly ride with them again!
A word of advice - be sure to check the schedules beforehand for both departure and return availability as certain days of the week do not have boats running to certain ports. Therefore, trekking dates may need to be adjusted to match the transportation needs of particular port sites.
** Tip: Read all of the instructions when you receive your booking confirmation. There will be detailed information about what is and is not acceptable to take on board. Small gas canisters, such as those used for a Jetboil, are not permitted on board. If seen/found, they will be confiscated but can be tagged and picked up upon return to the mainland. This, however, can put a serious damper in your food preparations for the entirety of the trek, so, if needed, gas canisters can be bought in town upon arrival. It will just be an inconvenience.
Camping Permits Required
In order to partake in the TCT, campground reservations are required for each leg (there is no other permit needed). Depending upon your planned itinerary and number of days allotted to complete the trail, that can result in a lot of ducks needing to be seamlessly aligned in a row. We planned our trip dates around the limited campsite availability offered just one and a half months in advance of our desired travel time (not my finest preparation moment, but we somehow made it work).
If I can offer one tip in booking, it would be to do it far in advance. The sites do book out and one missing campground reservation can throw a wrench in the entire plan sequence. Several days of internet site stalking may be required to catch cancellations that satisfy your overall plan (I may be guilty of using that tactic).
We only stayed at two campgrounds, Black Jack (pictured below) and Two Harbors, since our goal was to finish the TCT in three days. Black Jack was quaint, with just ten campsites. The toilets were clean, and its placement atop a hill and within trees was lovely. Bison boxes were also offered at each campsite to keep our goodies safe.
We skipped over Little Harbor Campground, which many hikers opt to stay at to break up the longer section from Black Jack to Two Harbors (one look at the elevation profile below, and you can clearly see why). Should we travel along the TCT again and have more days available to hike, we will be sure to pencil in an overnight at Little Harbor.
Once at Two Harbors Campground, we were no longer in small, backpacking campground territory. Two Harbors is massive, a definite contrast to Black Jack, with its 47 campsites overlooking the ocean and within walking distance to Two Harbors Village.
The Visit Catalina Island website offers helpful overviews of each of the five campgrounds available as well as easily accessible links to reserve spots at each one through Reserve America.
Important Information to Note:
Camping is not permitted along the trail. It’s either a campground or bust.
Each campground has potable water, except the coveted Parson’s Landing (which only has eight campsites and is extremely hard to snag). Regardless, yay for lightening the pack load!
The Trek
Overview: Elevation Profile
This elevation profile graphic from the Catalina Island Conservancy (modified with my edits to show how each of our days was broken up) paints a great picture of what's in store throughout the Trans-Catalina Trail. When I say "a series of up-downs", I really do mean a series of up-downs.
Day 1
Avalon to Black Jack Campground
Mileage: 13
Trail Time: 8:30 AM - 3:30 PM
We knew today would be both an early and long day since a 90-minute drive from San Diego to Long Beach was required to make our check-in time at the Long Beach port at 6 AM. Being the seasoned “early-wake-up-call” veterans that we are, we nailed our time markers, departed the mainland at 7 AM, and enjoyed the 70-minute boat ride to Avalon, the main hub for all things Catalina Island.
Upon arrival to the island, we did not waste any time getting onto the trail. Our AllTrails downloaded map, in addition to checking our printed map, ensured accuracy throughout the entire journey. However, little wooden mile markers and larger TCT signs fastened along the trail did make our progress easy to track.
In order to arrive at the trailhead, we weaved our way through a few streets of Avalon as residents greeted us through their windows with waves and words of encouragement. While heading inland, eventually walking adjacent to a few holes of the local golf course, we encountered a steady incline that picked up to nearly 1,000 feet once we hit Hermit Gulch Campground, and for the remainder of this first leg, we were granted a series of up-downs to Black Jack Campground.
Though entirely exposed, this section of the trail did offer a handful of treats, including views of reservoirs and several bison. However, this section, view wise, was my least favorite of the TCT. Since it is mostly maneuvering inland, the ocean views tapered out. This time of year is also known for its lack of greenery, so we weren't expecting much in the lush flora department and were not surprised by the abundance of familiar “SoCal” type brush lining the trail.
Nevertheless, we felt accomplished once at Black Jack Campground. A couple dehydrated meals and a few rounds of cribbage later, we snuggled up in our sleeping bags, allowing our bodies to rest and recover as much as possible for what we knew would be our longest sections of the trail to come.
Day 2
Black Jack Campground to Two Harbors Campground
Mileage: 16
Trail Time: 8 AM - 5 PM
This portion of our journey included a half-mile detour as a result of my engrossed fascination with bison tracks and sheer determination to spot some on the move (a word-bubbled, Homer Simpson “d’ oh!” could hover over this navigation mishap). Minor mistake aside, we made it to Catalina’s “Airport in the Sky” within 90 minutes and ordered a hearty bacon, egg, and hash brown breakfast. This is my kind of backpacking! Full bellies made it mildly difficult to find the motivation to get back onto the trail, but we managed to chug our way along. Another series of up-downs led the way until a collection of switchbacks descended us nearly 1,000 feet for two miles into Little Harbor.
Given our time constraints, staying the night at Little Harbor Campground did not make logistical sense. However, we did meet a handful of hikers upon arrival there who let it be well-known that they were done trekking for the day with a few heavy, relaxing sighs and swift removal of their packs. We, on the other hand, looked on enviously since we still had seven more miles to go, and my back was starting to kill me (thanks, bulging disc!). Despite needing to forge on, we did take a few moments to cool ourselves down under the water spigots before eyeing the great ascent we were about to make.
A gain of about 1,110 feet in two and a half miles began our Little Harbor to Two Harbors section, and even though it was tiring, this portion offered the most jaw-dropping views of the entire trip. Give me all of the synonyms for “breathtaking” and “stunning”, and they will perfectly apply here. The trail follows along the ridge of the island and overlooks what felt like the entire world. It had been a long time since I was rendered so speechless… and that’s saying something. Yes, the mileage and the constant roller coaster terrain made our legs and feet exhausted, but the views somehow silenced all of the pains and fatigue.
After a short pit stop at what seemed to be our highest achievable elevation point, we descended for about one and a half miles into Two Harbors where the rolling fog left me with some eerie Pirates of the Caribbean vibes as sunset approached.
Two Harbors is a much smaller town than Avalon, but it’s still home to a few cute shops and a restaurant. My husband was kind enough to run into the general store to grab us two fruit popsicles because I was craving something sugary and cold after another day of complete sun exposure. While devouring the treats to near brain freeze territory, we observed the various activities that Two Harbors offers. A small booth at the entryway to the dock noted the availability of kayak, canoe, and scuba rentals, something we made sure to remember for another time. String lights surrounding the small, main square powered on as the sun began to set, and our campsite was calling our names from about a football field length away.
Two Harbors Campground was channeling some serious “kick back and party” vibes since it can be easily accessed by the ferry for weekenders traveling with rolling coolers stuffed to the brim with beverages and grub. Our neighbors, much to my delight, were a collection of teachers who could not wait to enjoy their time off. We swapped some classroom war stories over a s’mores-cooking campfire and watched the sun drop down over the harbor. We decided right then and there that we’d be back for a simple weekend getaway involving minimal hiking mileage and much more indulgence in leisurely water activities.
Day 3
Two Harbors Campground to Parson’s Landing and back to Two Harbors
Mileage: 16
Trail Time: 8 AM - 3 PM
We opted to stay at Two Harbors the night prior to this leg so that the only items we needed to carry throughout it were our smaller and much lighter day packs with water and snacks. My back was beyond grateful for this strategic planning. However, a painful blood blister was drained this morning from my pinky toe and bandaged, which my feet were not thankful for, so we had to adjust our original plan.
Our goal was to finish the TCT during this trip, no matter what, so we figured our best bet to do so, with minimal bodily damage, was to take the coastal route both out and back instead of the mountain route for half of the leg. After a bit of discussion and finally coming to terms with the fact that we were at the complete mercy of the trail, we set off through the town of Two Harbors to begin the coastal route that would lead us to the end point of the TCT, Parson’s Landing.
Now, the coastal route seems easier in comparison to the mountain/coastal loop since the elevation appears to be a great deal more consistent… if only that were true. The many coves along the way that zigged and zagged in and out of the island made this section seem a whole lot longer. Granted, it was long, but the views were remarkable the entire way which helped to motivate my hobbled stride.
A brief cut inland, over some brush fields, and there it was… Parson’s Landing. We had this secluded, rock-filled beach strand all to ourselves for the hour and a half that we spent there. There were no campers in sight, just freezing cold water that we jumped into with our clothes on because why not? As cliché as it sounds, I really did feel like a kid again, splashing around the waves, bodysurfing and diving.
Ninety minutes here was not enough, but the time had come to make our way back to town. Luckily, the sun was out in full force, which helped to quickly dry us off so that we could get back onto the trail with minor chafing.
We zigged and zagged the same route back, and once Two Harbors came into view, we were hit with a giant wave of relief. We did it! A Halloween, blue moon, three-day trail victory, and now we had the upcoming night to relax and enjoy ourselves without worrying about the next day’s trail plans. Going into this, I knew we would not want to rush our final section of the trail but rather really take it all in, so I reserved our campsite at Two Harbors for two nights (self-five). This allowed us to treat our minds and bodies to a real dinner from the restaurant in town and a late-night campfire celebration with our site neighbors.
Could we have crammed this portion into the morning and left on Day 3? Yes. In fact, that's what I heard many others did when inquiring about this trek. Would it have been as enjoyable? I don't think so. If time allows, I highly recommend enjoying some island time as a successful TCT journey reward. Let's be honest, it is well deserved.
Day 4
Two Harbors
Mileage: Less than one
Trail Time: None
Ah, to wake up and just... be. What a feeling. We took today slow and steady, enjoying the sunrise, a camp breakfast, and an unhurried cleanup. Our boat didn’t depart until noon, so we took this morning to bask in the joy of our accomplishments. I logged our miles and added more to my journal, noting that even though the trail is technically labeled as 38 miles, we somehow clocked more. Isn’t that the way it always works out?
Once boarded, we ordered drinks, snacks, and watched the island shrink in the distance, full of gratitude for what it gave to us these past couple of days: memories, miles, and plans for more to come!
Thank you, Catalina! We will be back!
