I went for more than Outlander filming locations and the prospect of spotting Sam Heughan in his natural habitat…I promise. Scotland has fascinated me long before Starz brought Diana Gabaldon’s book series to the small screen. Experiencing the San Diego Scottish Highland Games as a child was my introduction to the culture, and ever since, I’ve been hooked. As a motorcycle guy, my husband's been a longtime fan of the famed TT Races at the Isle of Man, and with the island being a three-hour drive and similarly timed ferry ride away, we added it to the itinerary and embarked upon a magical vacation to two of the most beautiful places on Earth. After all, with the unicorn as its national animal, how could Scotland not be magical?
When to Visit:
Our trip lasted from mid-July to the beginning of August, and the weather was superb. Did we experience rainstorms? Yes. Was that expected? Yes. Partly cloudy life is typical here. When the clear skies came, we reveled in their warmth. When the storms passed through, we mucked around in our rain boots and makeshift ponchos. Scotland without the moody and ever-changing forecast simply wouldn't be Scotland at all. This time of year (July-August), the sun sets around 9:30 P.M., which is also perfect for milking the daylight for all its got and exploring as much as possible before it's too dark to really enjoy the sites.
Where to Stay:
If you have read any of my previous posts, then you know that I am a huge fan of staying in small, quaint, family-owned bed and breakfasts. While we were able to find and stay in such lodging throughout most of this trip, those facilities have sadly closed down as a result of the hardships brought on by the 2020 global pandemic. The itinerary and details below occurred prior to the pandemic.
Overview:
This trip was essentially split up into two phases. During the first phase, we worked our way north from Edinburgh into the Highlands. In the second phase, we moved south into the Lowlands and Glasgow, then to the Isle of Man and back to Edinburgh.
Pictured: Left map shows Phase 1 of the trip (Days 1-6) and right map shows Phase 2 of the trip (Days 7-13).
Day 1: Edinburgh
Our flight arrived in the wee hours of the morning, so we first went to our hotel to drop off luggage and freshen up. Around lunch time we set out to tour Edinburgh and cram as much as possible into the remaining hours of daylight.
Calton Hill was the first stop on the itinerary. This UNESCO World Heritage Site offers incredible views of the city, is free to visit, open 24 hours a day, and houses several monuments including the Dugald Stewart monument, a memorial to the namesake Scottish philosopher, the National Monument, a memorial to Scottish soldiers who bravely fought in battle, and the Nelson Monument, a tribute to Vice-Admiral Horatio Nelson and his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar.
After Calton Hill, we walked to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (aka Holyrood Palace), the former home to Mary, Queen of Scots, and the residence for the British monarchy when in Edinburgh. We didn’t tour inside due to time constraints but did check out Holyrood Abbey, the ruins of a 12th century founded abbey with an extensive history involving royal coronations, weddings, and funerals.
Jet lag combined with a solid amount of walking caused fatigue to set in hard and fast, so we stopped for an easy, supermarket dinner of cold cuts and chips before heading back to our hotel to rest up in preparation for a full schedule the following day.
Day 2: Edinburgh
Atop the fittingly named Castle Rock sits Edinburgh Castle, a former home to Scottish kings and queens and a fortress rich with gripping battle tales. We toured inside and out, fortunate enough to be present for the firing of the “One O’Clock Gun”, a tradition dating back to the mid-19th century.
** Tip: It is recommended to purchase tickets for the castle in advance to guarantee entry at the date and time desired.
Edinburgh Castle also serves as one end of the famous Royal Mile, named for its role as a royal processional route, while Holyrood Palace, where we visited yesterday, marks the opposite end. Today, we took the opportunity to explore more of the meat of the mile, which evoked some serious Diagon Alley vibes (for all of the Harry Potter fans out there, there are more Potterhead thrills to come).
** Fun Fact: Edinburgh offers night tours to haunting underground vaults and streets. Although we missed out on those tours during this trip, they are, without a doubt, on our itinerary for next time!
Near Holyrood Palace, within Holyrood Park and a short walk from the Royal Mile, lies an ancient and extinct volcano. The highest point, Arthur’s Seat, stands over 800 feet above sea level and offers stunning 360° views of the city and beyond. We opted to make the 45-minute hike to the top (times vary based on route taken, as there are several) and spent about the same amount of time at the top to take it all in.
A delicious dinner at Howie’s on Victoria Street refilled our severely empty tanks and set us up for a solid night’s sleep.
Day 3: Stirling, Pitlochry, and Killiecrankie
After all of the walking we did throughout Edinburgh the past two days, we were excited for the chance to finally venture out in our rented Fiat 500 and explore more of the country.
My castle-loving self couldn’t wait to see Scotland's dreamy collection of castles, the first on the list being a one-hour drive from Edinburgh to Stirling Castle. Expected partly cloudy conditions lingered until a rainstorm finally arrived mid-tour, so we purchased some gift shop ponchos and made the best of a damp situation.
**Fun Fact: Stirling Castle holds a commanding presence and is strategically placed between the Highlands and Lowlands atop another extinct volcano. When viewed from afar, it is quite jaw-dropping.
** Tip: Layers in Scotland are crucial! Raincoats (which we often left in the car, for some reason) and rain boots are par for the course here. After this rather wet lesson, we stopped at a store to purchase cheap rain boots that came in handy for the rest of the trip.
We retired our rain ponchos and left Stirling Castle, heading an hour away to the cute, old town of Pitlochry. A brief lunch at Victoria’s in Pitlochry charged us up for the remaining short drive to a picturesque hike along the Soldier’s Leap Trail in Killiecrankie. We then closed out the day basking in the breathtaking sight known as Queen’s View.
** Fun Fact: The placard on-site reads, "Queen's View was made famous by Queen Victoria's visit in 1866, but was probably named after Queen Isabella." Interesting.
Above are photos from the Soldier's Leap Trail while below is Queen's View overlooking Loch Tummel.
Day 4: Inverness
On Day 4, we really immersed ourselves in Scottish history, first exploring the mightiest artillery fortification in Britain, Fort George.
This expansive, 42-acre fortress took 22 years to build in its entirety and was created by George II as the ultimate defense against further Jacobite unrest following the 1746 defeat at Culloden of Bonnie Prince Charlie. It is the current home to the Black Watch, 3rd Battalion The Royal Regiment of Scotland.
From Fort George, we traveled ten miles to the Culloden Battlefield, the site of the bloody last battle of the Jacobite Rising and the catalyst for the creation of Fort George, as mentioned above.
The entry fee includes access to the visitor center, museum, and allows for walking the battlefield. The visitor center includes an incredible 360° immersion theater in addition to a museum with artifacts from the time period and fascinating ancestral information for those of Scottish descent.
Clan stones are found throughout the battlefield and act as markers to honor those who lost their lives in the battle.
En route to our B&B, we stopped at the Clava Cairns, three groups of cairns making up an ancient burial ground dating back 4,000 years. The experience was eerie, to say the least, due in large part to the ominous weather and vast deserted space.
**Fun Fact: The Clava Cairns served as Outlander inspiration for the fictional Craigh Na Dun, and a standing stone can be found here that may or may not whisk you away in time.
Day 5: Loch Ness
A trip to Scotland wouldn't be complete without attempting to catch a glimpse of good ole’ Nessie (aka the Loch Ness Monster). Although our attempt proved unsuccessful, we did enjoy a cruise along the Loch Ness and tour of Urquhart Castle, a ruin that rests alongside the loch.
Day 6: Halkirk and Wick
Off to proper Highland games in Halkirk we go! Drums, bagpipes, clan tents, bike racing, stone put, hammer throw, caber toss… I mean, what’s not to love?
More adventures commenced as we proceeded on a 35-minute drive to the most northerly point of mainland Britain, John O’Groats, also known as Journey’s End.
**Tip: I highly recommend walking out onto the dock that hovers over the North Sea. The view from all angles is marvelous.
Since we stood both literally and figuratively at the journey's end, we bid adieu to Phase 1 and kickstarted Phase 2 of the trip, now working our way south.
Day 7: Golspie, Tain, and Kyle of Lochalsh
Phase 2 started at Dunrobin Castle, a historic home of Dukes and Earls that offers a croquet lawn, formal garden, and falconry area where we watched a show and got hit by a falcon’s wing. The admission ticket is all-inclusive, so for £8.50 - £13.50, you, too, can hope for a winged high-five.
The castle was certainly unlike most we had seen, and will see, in Scotland, as its architectural design mimics a French château. Dunrobin Castle also holds a diverse history outside of simply being a royal residence. For instance, the castle served as a naval hospital during WWI and as a boy's boarding school for seven years in the mid-20th century.
A 25-minute drive along the eastern coast of Scotland brought us to our next stop, and the home of my husband's all-time favorite single malt scotch whiskey, the Glenmorangie Distillery. We partook in the Signet Tour, which included a guided and informative tour of the grounds and a final tasting in a decorative room to fully round out the experience.
** Fun Fact: Glenmorangie's copper stills are the tallest in Scotland, standing at a height of 16 feet and 10 inches. With stills as tall as a giraffe, the distillery has dubbed the giraffe their official "spirit animal". Because of this, Glenmorangie also partners with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation to support the wild giraffe populations in Africa. A delicious product with a giving heart... how could we not support them?
When planning trips, I always lock-in a few "must-see, must-do" items but then leave whatever remaining time open to explore and enjoy whatever comes our way. Glenmorangie was the final must-do for the day, which allowed us to fully enjoy a two-hour drive west through the Highlands. This experience marked our first encounter with the heart of the Highlands, so, naturally, there were plenty of "stop the car!" photo-op moments to delight in the dramatic scenery.
Timing somehow worked out perfectly, and we arrived at Eilean Donan in time to enjoy a moody Scottish sunset over the iconic castle. Arriving during off-peak hours when the castle was closed also meant nary a soul in sight. We had the pathway and outside of the castle all to ourselves.
Day 8: Kyle of Lochalsh, Highland Magic, Glenfinnan, and Glasgow
We visited Eilean Donan bright and early to check out the inside of the castle with as little tourist competition as possible. The outside view captivated me much more, so I only took two photos inside (though exploring the inside was certainly enjoyable).
Afterwards, we traveled south on another drive through the Highlands. This experience far surpassed the prior, as a storm passing through caused waterfalls to flow along every nook and cranny of the mountains. A random parking lot/rest area to the side of the road swarmed with tourists and locals alike who stepped out of their vehicles to gaze in disbelief at a setting that could only be described as fantastical.
Once I picked my jaw up off the floor, a long-held Potterhead dream turned to reality as we pulled into the Glennfinnan Monument and Visitor Center lot. Historically, this location is significant because it is where over 1,000 Highlanders united under Bonnie Prince Charlie and the fight to establish a Stuart king.
First, we walked down to Loch Shiel and stood beside the nearly 60-foot-tall Glenfinnan Monument, a dedication to those same Highlanders who were lost in the Battle of Culloden. A short hike then offered a terrific vantage point to see the same location with a wider lens.
Up, up, and away we went, sloshing through the soggy, muddy hills along the Glenfinnan Viaduct Lookout Trail to arrive at the perfect spot granting an all-access viewing pass to the one and only Hogwart’s Express steam train cruising along the Glenfinnan Viaduct.
** Tip: Timing is crucial! Check the train's timetable to be sure the train is running and to confirm that the train's departure times from Fort William have not changed. The train is said to arrive 30-40 minutes after it departs from Fort William, so we settled into our spot at 2:30 PM to catch the afternoon train with plenty of time to take photos, sit, and enjoy the view before it passed by 35 minutes later. There will be lots of people, but there is plenty of open space available for all.
In order to shorten our drive south through England the following day, we continued on from Glenfinnan to Glasgow, making the three hour drive through the late afternoon to land us into Glasgow around dinnertime. The day's lengthy travels produced ravenous bellies, so we sat down and enjoyed supper with cider at The Butterfly and the Pig.
Our late arrival and even later meal meant little opportunity to explore Glasgow, but I was okay with that. Compared to everything else we'd seen and done in Scotland, Glasgow was not my cup of tea. I am not a big city gal, and Glasgow reminded me of the busy cities I'd been to in New York, San Diego, and Frankfurt. There were a lot of buildings, businesses, and people, and experiencing it once suited us just fine.
Day 9: The Isle of Man
The moment my husband had been waiting for finally arrived. We drove nearly three hours south from Glasgow to Heysham, England to board the ferry, called Ben-my-Chree, that sailed west across the Irish Sea for another three and half hours to the capital, Douglas, on the Isle of Man.
**Tip: We drove straight onto the ferry with our rental car to make getting around the Isle of Man quick and easy. I would highly recommend doing that as well!
The 221-square-mile Isle of Man sits between England and Ireland and is known as the motorcycle racing capital of the world. However, the island offers plenty of enjoyable activities for the non-motorcycle enthusiast as well. For instance, the island has about 40 designated hiking trails and a healthy helping of waterfalls (my kind of playground). Naturally then, once our wheels touched down on Isle of Man asphalt, we set off to Dhoon Glen, a stunning two-mile waterfall hike. The "Big Girl" waterfall is one of the tallest on the island and its surrounding glen left us speechless throughout the entire hour spent there.
** Fun Fact: The Bee Gees are from the Isle of Man.
After Dhoon Glen, we spent the remaining hours of the day strolling leisurely through shops to purchase souvenirs and then checked into our B&B. If a half of a day at the Isle of Man could be such a success, and I simply could not wait for what a full day had in store for us.
Day 10: The Isle of Man
Our attempts to cruise the TT Mountain Course were not affected on account of this hazy, crazy, rainy day of summer. In fact, the rain seemed to work in our favor because many places, including the Grandstand, were deserted for the time being as many folks opted to stay indoors.
What's so unique about the course is that rather than being a closed-circuit course like most others, it is comprised of nearly 38 miles of public roads that close specifically for the racing event during the last week of May and the first week of June. Otherwise, it is merely a normal day's drive, albeit a significantly intense one if traveling over 130 mph on a motorcycle. Hairpin turn made me gasp, and I was probably going a whopping 5 mph under the speed limit.
After driving through a significant portion of the course and walking around the Grandstand, we headed to the island's southern tip, The Sound, to hike along the coastal footpath called The Raad ny Foillan. While the nearly 100-mile trail offers the opportunity to walk around the entire island, we opted for a three-mile portion that we somehow lost our way on a few times. Nevertheless, the breathtaking views of the Irish Sea and the Calf of Man island in the distance along with numerous rugged cliffs and herds of sheep within such a short chunk of trail left me wanting to hike it all. I would love to go back someday and make an epic backpacking trip out of that trail, but, until then, these memories will do just fine.
Day 11: The Isle of Man
Our last full day on the Isle of Man lent itself to exploring more trails and even more of the race course.
First, we warmed up our legs with a waterfall and bridge hike at the fern-filled Glen Maye. Short and sweet, we spent only about 45 minutes here rock hopping, picture taking, and green gazing.
After Glen Maye, we drove the Mountain Mile, enjoying a day of clear skies and the views that this section of the TT course presented. A special stop at the famous Creg-Ny-Baa, a landmark of the race course and the island, was the icing on the cake (er, the fish with the chips?).
Following our lunch at Creg-Ny-Baa, we stopped at the Laxey Wheel, the largest functioning waterwheel in the world. The aesthetic resembles something from a carnival, and investigating its inner workings from all angles proved as entertaining as any attraction. With a waterwheel naturally comes calming adjacent streams and petite waterfalls, making the surrounding scenery serene, green, and quite mesmerizing. In addition to checking out the wheel, we explored inside a small portion of the Great Laxey Mine and listened to a few mining stories from its heyday.
After spending about an hour and a half at the Laxey Wheel, we worked our way back to the B&B, stopping to grab dinner and enjoy the city lights against the tranquil Irish Sea.
**Tip: In 2019, the Laxey Wheel underwent some repairs and, thus, the wheel was stopped. During the repairs, access to the top of the wheel was prohibited. Prior to visiting, be sure things are up and running to reduce any disappointment that may occur. Watching the wheel in action is truly remarkable.
Day 12: The Journey Back to Edinburgh
After two and a half extraordinary days on the Isle of Man, we said our farewells and made the ferry journey back across the Irish Sea to England. We then drove north into Scotland and then Edinburgh, where we strolled along the Firth of the River Forth, delighting in the engineering feats of the Forth Bridge.
For our final night of the trip, my very thoughtful husband made a dream of mine come true---to spend a night in a castle. We shared Illieston Castle in Edinburgh with its hosts who warmly welcomed us, swapped stories with us, and treated us to the perfect evening to conclude a perfect trip. Because I am who I am, I made my photo-averse husband participate in a photoshoot with me and our GoPro outside at sunset. Needless to say, he thanked me for dragging him out and in front of the camera later.
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