As a deep-rooted nature lover and avid hiker, I knew I couldn’t go to Portugal without visiting its only national park. Yep, that’s right. Portugal only has one national park, and its name is Peneda-Gerês National Park, or also commonly known as just Gerês. It is located in northern Portugal, hugs the Spanish border, and is about 174,000 acres in size. My experience in Gerês differed greatly from my previous national park experiences in the states. Instead of waves of tourists packing campgrounds and busy villages overrun with patrons stocking up on costly souvenirs, Gerês was very calm and traffic by both humans and vehicles was minimal in comparison. There was no park ranger stationed alongside a welcome sign at the entrance and the picturesque, traditional villages scattered within Gerês exuded a relaxing, slow-paced vibe that I both loved and appreciated. It was incredibly nice to not feel rushed to snap a photo before getting photobombed or anxious to try to snag a reservation because permits sell out so far in advance. No permit or fee required here; something else I wasn’t used to.
When to Visit
My brother and I couldn’t have asked for better weather during our mid-July visit, where temperatures average low 70s during the day and mid-50s at night. Over the course of our six-hour stay in the park, the conditions remained fairly stable. The infinite lush green forests smelled refreshingly earthy, the cool air felt neat and crisp, and the mysterious fog hovering below layers of deep gray clouds reminded me of the weather I encountered in the Scottish Highlands. Overall, Mother Nature’s glorious concoction resulted in a day filled with enchantment.
Where to Stay
Staying somewhere near the park was ideal so that we could explore as much as we wanted and not have to worry about driving a long distance after a long day. Online research led us to the fair-sized town of Ponte da Barca, an obvious choice as it is situated just outside of the park and is a short 30-minute drive to both Soajo and Lindoso, our first and last stops of the day. We stayed at the Hotel Fonte Velha, and it ended up being one of those hotels that you just don’t want to leave. Not only was the room remarkably spacious and the accommodations an incredible value, but the hotel is also situated right next to the Lima River. This provided us with a gorgeous view of a tree-lined waterway complete with a hiking path that we strolled along upon our return from the day’s adventures. The lobby branched off into a separate area containing several dining tables, a small bar, and a pool table that we, of course, took advantage of. There were multiple dining options available in town, and walking to everything we needed and desired was a cinch. One of the most fascinating parts of all (at least for us), was the realization that the town offered workout machines along the river trail so that you could get in some solid cardio while continuously staring in awe at the river. I don’t know about you, but I think stationary bike river cardio should be the next big thing.
Soajo
After our first day exploring Porto, we set out for Soajo to kick off day 2 of our Portugal adventure. Coming from Porto, the village of Soajo is an easy one hour and 30-minute drive and lies near the park’s western boundary line. A multitude of treasures can be found within Soajo, such as views of the park’s lowest point, the Lima River, dozens of old stone granaries, and my personal favorite, the Caminhos do Pão e do Fé (the Paths of Bread and Faith) hiking trail.
Granaries
Throughout the park, there are many stone structures called granaries, or espigueiros. Soajo is home to nearly two dozen of them. The granaries serve as storehouses for animal feed and grain, and they are raised off of the ground so that rodents and other critters don’t make their way inside and spoil the crop. Their positioning off of the ground also allows water to pass through during and after a storm. Many of the granaries were originally adorned with crosses on top to signify hope and blessing for a bountiful harvest. Some are engraved with dates all the way back to the 1800s, but further details reveal that the origin of the espigueiros actually dates back to the 1200s. Some are still used today for their intended purpose, while others stand merely as historical treasures for visitors to gaze at. These granaries are incredibly unique, so I made sure to get in a good amount of uninterrupted gazing.
The Caminhos do Pão e do Fé (the Paths of Bread and Faith)
After exploring the granaries, we set off to find the Caminhos do Pão e do Fé (the Paths of Bread and Faith). A small information room within the village offered a selection of maps for different trails around the area. This was greatly appreciated, as trying to research and find maps online beforehand proved to be a challenging undertaking. Not much information is digitally shared about these trails, so this paper map provided us with what we needed to get started.
The map’s noted trail initially led us through parts of the more populated, modernized section of the village. However, after about half of a mile, we quickly found ourselves in a more desolate location further up the mountainside. The distancing view of the red-roofed village below grew more and more breathtaking as we made progress along the trail. The shapes of the vineyard rows became more distinct, and the features of the mountains became more defined. Old stone walls lined the majority of the pathway, occasionally breaking off for passage to a few small stone cottages nearby. Stonemasonry was definitely a prominent theme here, as we even traveled on a rather worn stone walkway indented with parallel grooves. These grooves revealed the trail’s history as a common pathway for crop transportation via animal-drawn carts.
The Paths of Bread and Faith trail is not heavily marked with extravagant directional signs. Instead, a discrete system of red and yellow lines etched into rock or wood along the route are used. Their orientation and placement indicate if you are either proceeding in the correct direction or heading off track, and a key to understanding all of this was provided on the map. The entire system was very helpful because, at times, dense greenery surrounding the pathway caused us to question our navigation. Nonetheless, we managed to follow the markers just fine.
My heart did stop for about five seconds though, not due to miscommunication or misdirection, but as a result of a brief turn up the path that put us up close and personal with some resting livestock and their very, very large and pointy horns. Luckily, they were not as shocked by this chance meeting as we were and seemed to, thankfully, simply disregard our presence. Not long after, the ringing of petite cowbells introduced a scattered flock of sheep passing by. A shepherd stood in the distance, guiding her flock towards what I assumed to be their ultimate destination. Encountering roaming livestock became a normal occurrence along this trail, and we were just barely two miles into it!
Throughout our nearly two-hour trek weaving through and around the idyllic greenery of Soajo, we became accustomed to the sounds of leaves rustling in the wind, water trickling down a stream, birds chirping atop branches, and livestock bells ringing. Soajo was a difficult place to leave, but with limited time, we knew we had to make it back to the car and venture off to the next destination.
Lindoso
A 15-minute drive led us to Lindoso, another town inside of the park that is famous for its dam, its castle, and for having the largest collection of granaries. Naturally, we had to stop at all three.
Alto Lindoso Dam
Our first stop on the list was to the Alto Lindoso Dam. This massive double-curvature arch dam is located on the Lima River very close to the Spanish border. It stands at just over 360 feet tall and nearly 1,000 feet wide at the top. Visitors can park about 100 feet past the dam on the side of the road and take the opportunity to experience walking across this remarkable man-made creation. The other option is to merely drive across and only catch a glimpse. In my opinion, the former is much more rewarding as you truly get to take in just how extraordinary the dam is.
A landmark sign greeted us at the start of our crossing and shared all of the details about the dam’s history and significance. Going fully operational in 1993, this hydroelectric power plant is recognized as the largest and most powerful hydroelectric energy producer in Portugal (not to mention, it is commended for its planet-saving alternative energy production). The wind came out in full force during our stop here, making the walk across slightly more challenging. Thankfully, the concrete barricades forming a sidewalk prevented me from blowing completely over into the street. In just a few moments, we positioned ourselves at the center of the dam, just above the main opening. We peeked over the wall and gazed down below at the tremendous force of water output. The mist produced by this process clashed with the sun and kindly provided us with a glimpse at a rainbow. We spent only about ten minutes here in all, but it was definitely worth the quick stopover on our way to another one of Lindoso’s famed landmarks, the Lindoso Castle.
Lindoso Castle
After a brief four-minute drive, we pulled into the lot, ready and eager to explore the medieval Lindoso Castle. The castle, much like the dam, is situated along the Lima River and near the Spanish border. This advantageous placement has led it to be known as “one of the most important Portuguese military monuments”. Once past the castle’s large stone boundary walls, the interior of the castle itself is a bit disappointing. Most of what remains are minor ruins, and not much restoration has been done. However, there is a small, yet interesting exhibit connected to the front office that provides some historical information about the area and castle. While fun to wander, our 20 minutes of exploration time inside the castle seemed more than enough, and the large number of granaries in the distance were calling our name.
From atop the castle walls, you can see something that slightly resembles a cemetery; except, it’s not a cemetery. It is, in fact, an intriguing display of 60 granaries. These practically mirrored the ones we saw in Soajo. However, many were engraved with more symbols and dates not present on those in Soajo, and they also appeared more well-kept overall. Remnants of corn laid scattered across the ground and even inside some of the granaries, leading me to believe that the majority are still actively used today. More intense gazing commenced, and for a few moments, we sat and stewed in all of the beauty that surrounded us before having to head back to our hotel for the night.
Solitude and Serenity
Spending a day in Portugal’s only national park was a real treat. If you are looking to savor a few hours of solitude and serenity, this is the place to explore. Obrigada, Portugal. You are amazing.
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