Planes, trains, and… wine? Yes, please! My mom and I embarked upon another adventure to celebrate her birthday - this time to Northern California! As a wine enthusiast, I knew, without a doubt, this region was one I needed to take her to. Of course, it would not be proper shenanigans with me if a hike or two were not included, so, naturally, I decided to make her walk several miles. Not to fret, though, because around these parts, wine and chocolate are the reward for a long day’s work!
When to Visit:
This is certainly a “whatever tickles your fancy” sort of question. In February, we experienced perfect, cool weather conditions in the mid-50s with clear skies.
This time of year is considered “off peak” for the wineries since August to October is harvest season, and the central spring season months are when the new buds awaken. This makes February sort of a limbo month. As a result, many of the typical tours are not being held, many of the facilities are near empty, and some may find the views of the fields a bit wanting. As someone who is not a fan of large crowds, I was in no way, shape, or form mad about any of this. For me, the views were still stunning, we practically had many of the wineries to ourselves, especially during the weekdays, and I never felt rushed or overwhelmed. All in all, this time of year, especially for our first visit, suited us very well.
Where to stay:
If you’ve read any of my previous mother-daughter adventure articles, then you know that we are huge fans of staying in bed and breakfasts during our travels. B&Bs offer something that large hotel chains just can’t, no matter how hard they try, and that is making guests feel like wherever they are is home. From my experience, great B&Bs can make you feel connected to the area as a part of the community and, in effect, much more relaxed throughout the stay. Per my usual time sensitive trips, I knew we needed a spot centrally located that allowed for easy travel to maximize the itinerary. Arbor Guest House, a charming Napa Valley bed and breakfast, was just the place.
This central hub is located about an hour drive from Sacramento Airport and just one and a half miles to downtown Napa, where key attractions like the Napa Valley Wine Train and Oxbow Public Market reside. Should these items be on your list, like they were ours, this is key to avoid parking issues during the busy season (we didn’t get much of this in February, but should we return during an on-season month, making that easy one-mile walk to be able to enjoy all of these places without the stress of driving and finding parking would be so worth it).
The grounds contain a gazebo to sit back and enjoy some wine or partake in a friendly game of bocce ball in the adjacent court available to guests for use, and they also offer in-room massages, though we didn’t have a chance to enjoy those. The caretakers gladly share insider tips of local events taking place and even provide discount coupons to local venues. Additionally, after our long days of explorations, they would leave out some treats for us - specifically gluten free cookies for me! We had barely just met, and they already knew the way to my baked goods loving heart.
Day 1: On Cloud Wine
Day one was a long one, primarily because we woke up before dawn to catch a flight north from San Diego to Sacramento and then proceeded to fill every second of daylight with whatever we could.
Our first stop was to Kendall Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens. What initially drew me to this winery was the beautiful estate surrounded by rows upon rows of vines. We strolled around some of the shorter vineyard rows at the front of the facility, of which contained labels with the different grape varietals. Their seven garden spaces had not yet begun to bloom, but nevertheless, we were able to appreciate some of their four acres while learning what would grow there and why (some for pure aesthetics while others for consumption).
Note: Any guided tours for the garden with special tastings are only available April through October, but solely wine tasting is available year round in the estate building. Our walk around the estate was self-guided and immensely enjoyed, as was the wine!
** Tip: Be sure to use the 2-for-1 tasting coupon on their website!
From there, we drove 15 miles north on the 101, working our way through my little pre-planned winery loop to arrive at Francis Ford Coppola Winery! This place was unlike any other winery I’d seen. Upon entry, we browsed through some cinematic history with memorabilia from iconic films such as The Godfather and Bram Stoker’s Dracula in addition to witnessing the giant, neon martini glass from Coppola's 1981 film One From the Heart. As if that weren’t enough, all of that surrounds the show stopping, revolving centerpiece of a ‘48 Tucker! Cue instant photo session.
Coppola Winery also offers a variety of tastings and experiences, such as the Bottling Ballet Mecanique Tour, which grants access to some hidden nooks and crannies, including a walk above the winery’s bottling facility. Since it was just my mom and I on this tour (yay off-peak season!), we were able to linger a bit and bask in the creativity of this place.
Reservations are available for private cabins around their estate pool, though that doesn’t open up until late spring/early summer. There’s also a restaurant inside, but we sadly did not have time to sit down and enjoy a bite.
Day 2: Udderly Picturesque
Our second day was the longest in terms of driving as we headed to the coast, which involved driving through Petaluma, a dairy farm area. One might think February would be dull and drab here, but the grass was surprisingly lush and green, and the cows were loving it. En route, we made a spontaneous stop at Marin French Cheese Company for some free samples!
A swift 35-minute drive from our cheese haven led to the famous Cypress Tree Tunnel at the Point Reyes Receiving Station. Another photography session ensued, and the entire 30 minutes we spent there was in peaceful, solitary bliss.
Since we were already within the Point Reyes National Seashore boundary, we drove another easy 30 minutes to the most northern area of the Point Reyes peninsula. This location is special for several reasons.
First, it houses the Historic Pierce Point Ranch which provides a glimpse into the largest and most highly regarded independent ranch of the area from the latter part of the 1800s. It is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places and includes interpretive signs throughout that detail the history of the various buildings on this once lively ranch.
Second, and one of my most favorite aspects of this place, is that it is home to the Tule Elk Reserve, where the10-mile round-trip Tomales Point Trail goes through. Tule elk were once the dominant grazers of the area until the mid-19th century when they became locally extinct, only to be reintroduced nearly a century later.
The first three miles of the Tomales Point Trail are well-maintained and follow the route of an old ranch road as it travels along the crest of the ridge. We only worked our way through about a third of the trail to Tomales Point due to time constraints, but that one-third was an utter delight. Overlooking the Tomales Bay on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other, this trek evoked memories of my time on the Trans-Catalina Trail, and further solidified my belief that California is quite spectacular.
Day 3: On the Wine Track
It’s wine train time! Well, almost. With a 10:30 AM check-in time for the three-hour Gourmet Express Lunch train ride, we had some time to spare in the early morning and decided to spend it walking around Oxbow Public Market, positioned just a quarter mile, or two-minute drive, from the train station.
After perusing artisanal goodies, our transport back into time awaited via the Napa Valley Wine Train, composed of refurbished, antique Pullman rail cars that project a very fitting early-20th century vibe. Each car is styled differently, making walking from one car to the next all the more fascinating. The entire ride itself is 36 miles, beginning in Downtown Napa, working its way north to St. Helena, and then back again.
Along the way, we devoured a delectable three course meal while heading north, and then were moved to a lounge car on the return trip for dessert and coffee or tea. The train alternated between views of quaint towns and endless vineyards. My mom and I traveled between cars to explore each one’s individuality and to, once again, take a lot of pictures.
Note: Table seating for meals may be shared with others to hold true to the traditional ways of the rail. Another perk of the off-season visit, the rail cars were not full, so we were able to have our own, private table. However, one can reserve a table, but only in their Champagne Vista Dome during the dinner time ride.
Mid-day sunshine was still aglow, so off on a 20-minute drive we went to Domaine Chandon for some sparkling wine. The landscaping here was spacious and charming, with multiple tasting areas both indoors and outdoors across their lawn. We opted for the tranquility brought about by a stone patio area nestled below trees and complete with a mini waterfall. What a rather perfect way to wrap up such a wonderful day.
Day 4: A California Castle
For our last day of the trip, we bid adieu to our B&B and ventured 30 minutes north to Bale Grist Mill State Historic Park. However, about 5 minutes from our intended destination, we stumbled upon a structure that had me shouting, “Did you just see that!?” Needless to say, I frightened my mother, but also pulled a u-turn (don’t worry, it was completely legal) and then proceeded to investigate what this magnificent site was.
Lo and behold, we discovered it to be Beringer Vineyards, the oldest continuously operating winery in Napa Valley! What took my breath away was the Victorian-style Rhine House mansion, built in the late-19th century as the residence for founder Fredrick Beringer and modeled after his personal German residence. We weren’t able to explore inside as the facility was closed, but I intend to be back someday to explore this place to its fullest. In the meantime, we made the most of this brief detour by exploring the grounds.
Then, back on the road we went for a swift 3-mile drive to our penultimate attraction of the day, Bale Grist Mill. Developed in the mid-19th century, the mill was significant in its day for providing a place for residents to turn their grain into flour. The water wheel, which drives the mill and has been recently restored, is one of two surviving water-driven mills west of the Mississippi River.
The lovely two and a half mile History Trail alongside Mill Creek guides the way to this site and beyond for additional adventuring and education. As someone who enjoys learning and understanding how things work, the opportunity to watch the intricacies of the water wheel operate from inside the mill was fascinating.
And now, for the grand finale, the moment I had been waiting for… a quick 5-minute drive, and there it was. Castello di Amarosa. That deserves its own sentence. Those who know me well know that I have a questionably healthy obsession with castles. Anytime I travel abroad, they’re the first item on my research list. So, when I discovered this gem resided in California, it quickly made its way onto our itinerary and most certainly did not disappoint.
For me, such a place is what dreams are made of. This facility, named the Castle of Love, is modeled after 13th-century style Tuscan architecture with every intention to be as authentic as possible, and, boy, did they hit the mark. Exploring it was my equivalent of an amusement park, and photos simply do not do the expansive nature of the structure justice (though, they do help to paint a vivid picture of how visually marvelous this place is).
Reservations are required to enter, whether it be for a tour, tasting, or both. We had reserved tickets in advance for their premium tour, dubbed “the gem of guided tours”. With a duration of about two hours, this tour allows you to explore more corners of the castle, mostly underground! A guide led us through the facility’s production area and then to the underground cellars to explore a diverse collection of wine caves. In the spirit of upholding the mission of European authenticity, this also included exploring a torture chamber and armory! The tour concluded with a walk through the Grand Barrel Room, and grand it was, to taste a Cabernet Sauvignon straight from the barrel.
Now, the official tasting took place, of which my palate is still doing cartwheels over. While some items on the itinerary were one-and-doners, the Castello di Amarosa is a place I would gladly visit ten times over, knowing that each time I visit I’ll be certain to uncover something new. An authentic European castle just an eight-hour drive from my house where I can enjoy delicious wine and scenery; yes, please!
This castle experience was a colossal cherry on top of our sweet Sunday of an adventure. As with all good things, though, it had to come to an end. I bought a bag of chocolate covered grapes for the drive to the airport, bittersweetly in motion to our return flight home.
In Closing: Exceptional Gratitude
Whenever I write these articles, I am always brought back to the feelings I had while experiencing the actual events. Each and every time, it is immense gratitude for the moments, the places, and the people I'm with. This experience took place prior to the recent pandemic that has drastically changed the way in which we travel and experience the world. Memories such as these serve as reminders for me to appreciate the present moments because it is uncertain as to how and when things will change. This trip is one I will forever hold close to my heart, and I hope that it inspires others to enjoy the fruits (here's looking at you, grapes) that California has to offer. Cheers!
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