Imagine exploring the largest island in California, traversing its miles of backcountry trails and gazing up at constellations so vivid your eyes twinkle along with the stars. Well, guess what? You don’t have to just imagine it; you can experience it by visiting Santa Cruz Island in the beautiful Channel Islands National Park! While the national park consists of 5 islands, Santa Cruz Island is the largest and most popular. This national park is unlike any I’ve ever experienced on account of multiple unique factors, including the fact that an hour boat ride is needed just to get to it! Not to mention, with over 150 species unique to the island alone, this makes Channel Islands National Park similar in both intrigue and exclusivity to the Galapagos Islands and its special wildlife. After all, it didn’t earn the nickname “Galapagos of North America” for nothing! A secluded, off-the-grid chunk of national park paradise, yes please!
When to Visit
The National Park Service website notes that, “In general, the islands have a Mediterranean climate year-round. Temperatures are relatively stable, with highs averaging in the mid-60s (°F) and lows in the low-50s.” Although generally stable, being completely surrounded by the ocean can lead to sudden weather changes. The first portion of our trip was pleasantly sunny with not a cloud in the sky, while the latter portion contained overcast, chilly conditions. For a more in-depth breakdown, the NPS website provides an informative overview by season.
PLEASE NOTE:
All hiking trails across the island are completely exposed, so sunscreen and a hat are strongly advised, especially during summer months. Our November visit even called for a substantial amount of sunscreen and protective headwear.
Where to Stay
There are two campgrounds, both open year-round, located on Santa Cruz Island: Scorpion and Del Norte. Scorpion is extremely family friendly, about a leisurely half-mile trek from the dock and the outdoor adventure equipment area, and most importantly, is the only campground on the island with readily available potable water. The small number of campsites, 25 to be exact with a maximum allowance of 6 people per site, definitely keeps the island from feeling overcrowded. At no point did I ever feel overwhelmed by tourists, especially since once we hit the trails, the vast amount of open land meant we hardly ever ran into another soul (with the exception of wildlife souls, that is). Each campsite contains a picnic table, substantial shade, and a fox box (more on this to the right).
In contrast to Scorpion, Del Norte is a backcountry campground meaning that while there is an available pit-style toilet, there is no accessible, potable water. Since we did not camp at this area, I do not have much more information regarding it other than that there are only four available campsites within that campground. From the comments of fellow park visitors, it didn’t seem all that exciting.
How to Get There and Boat Check-In
Access to the park is available only by private boat or via two companies contracted with the park: Island Packers to access by boat and Channel Islands Aviation to access by flight. We selected Island Packers because the aviation company only routes to the San Miguel and Santa Rosa Islands.
To get to the parking area for the boat dock, follow the Harbor Drive signs to the appropriate lot. There are clear signs showing where to park for the Island Packers boats and check-in (the line of people outside as well as the scattered bunch of backpack wanderers are also solid clues). Island Packers does provide clear directions upon booking as well.
Once parked, check-in took place inside the building parallel to the dock. Friendly employees greeted us at the counter, and with our reservations for both the campground and boat previously settled, check-in went smoothly. The check-in area also contains a very small store complete with a limited number of souvenirs including apparel and books in addition to often forgotten necessities such as batteries and Dramamine.
Being an hour early, per Island Packers recommendations, we still had plenty of time to spare. With that extra time, we walked around, scoping out the shops and restaurants nearby (though, many were still dormant at 8 AM). Rows of sailboats swaying in the harbor, marinating in the sweet smell of salt water and fish, lined our route of exploration. We stopped for a quick pick-me-up at one of the only open establishments and then walked back 20 minutes prior to our boat's scheduled departure (this was perfect timing, too, as we saw the line of passengers begin loading onto the boat).
TIP: Any items dangling outside of your pack (sandals, hats, etc…) must be placed inside of the pack. Bags will not be allowed onboard if any items are attached to the outside of them. Island Packers does offer netted bags for temporary use as carry-ons, but I wish I would’ve known this rule prior to arrival so that I didn’t have to spend time trying to reconfigure items in my already full pack. Small carry-ons (i.e. small day backpack, reusable grocery bag, purse) were permitted onboard, so I would advise packing a small bag with snacks, water, and such to take on the boat, especially if bringing children.
** In addition, any fuel cans will need to be removed from your pack and placed in a specific Island Packers bin to be stowed separately during the boat ride (the same goes for the return trip).
Sailing to the Island
Island Packers sure knows what they’re doing. Entertaining staff members kindly welcomed us onto the boat with some rather animated sound effects over the intercom and a handful of jokes that had us literally laughing out loud. Not only that, but they made a few brief stops for us en route to the island so that we could snap a few photos of adorable sea lions perched atop a buoy, some flat out asleep while others seemed to embrace their inner Gisele and struck a pose for doting viewers (work it, sea lions!). Shortly after, a pod of dolphins swam alongside the boat, showcasing both their speed and jumping abilities.
The boat was spacious enough to be able to walk around. The main loading level included a small, indoor seating area with a snack bar and an outdoor area with a few benches to enjoy the stunning ocean views along the way. A narrow staircase led to an additional level containing several more benches and a broader ocean view.
After about 50 minutes zooming across the Pacific Ocean, a vague outline of a string of islands came into view, the forefront partially veiled by a soft layer of fog. The scene looked like a watercolor painting as pale shades of blue and gray delicately converged, leading to quite the magical composition of sea, sky, and Santa Cruz Island.
Arrival
Upon docking at the island, day visitors were offloaded first and directed by a guide towards their next destination (likely the meeting location for their chosen water activity). Campers were then instructed to form an assembly line along the dock, deemed the "bucket brigade" by the park staff, to help unload the packs and additional guest luggage stowed prior to departure. While methodically handing bags down the line, I became amazed at how much some people brought (I’m talking multiple Ikea bags bursting at the seams with snacks).
Once all of the bags were reunited with their owners, the overnight guests formed a group just off of the dock where the park ranger provided us with a brief orientation. He welcomed us to the park, provided some background information about the various islands, then offered some words of warning (see my fox warning above). Additionally, he shared that should we get injured in any way, the nearest ambulance was about an hour boat ride away. So, in short, don’t do anything stupid, but have a good time. On that positive note, we grabbed our packs and set off to what would be our home for the next two nights.
The Campground
A whopping half-mile hike led us to the Lower Loop campsites of Scorpion campground. Along the way, we passed by some rusty old car parts and frames, an old windmill, a ranger house, an information kiosk with a 3-D map, a kayak kiosk with an area stacked with kayaks, and the small visitor center building. Since our campsite was #1, we hit our mark as soon as we entered the campground, and I finally realized why no one else followed the general backpacking rule of thumb, “pack only essentials”. I would certainly not consider any portion of this experience backpacking, as we carried all of our belongings less than a mile. I would have gladly loaded up on snacks had I known this prior, but I digress. Word to the wise, it’s boat assisted backpacking, so don’t worry about sacrificing the goodies!
Within the Lower Loop portion of the campground (the loop closest to the ocean), there is a central, potable water spigot, a fire extinguisher, and several vault toilets. The area was also swimming in foliage, shaded by a mass of various trees (the most prominent seemed to be eucalyptus). In contrast, when walking through the Upper Loop portion of the campground, the sparse trees caused this section to feel more spacious in comparison. Since it is also further inland than Lower Loop, Upper Loop offered much better views of the island’s rolling hills. Our campsite at Lower Loop didn’t offer any immediate “wow” factor scenery, but its shorter distance to the dock may be preferable to some.
Despite the families of mosquitoes frequenting our picnic table at night, the campground was very peaceful, and we enjoyed several games of cards underneath our headlamp lights during the quiet evenings.
Let the Hiking Begin
Trail maps can be picked up at the check-in area on the mainland or at the kayak kiosk on the island. This map was our lifesaver and guide throughout the entire trip. I strongly recommend getting a couple just in case one gets wet (as one of ours did).
Day 1
Total Hiking Distance: 11 miles roundtrip
Overview:
Boat ride to Santa Cruz Island and set up camp
Visitor’s Center
Scorpion Loop to Smuggler’s Cove and the surrounding area
Most of our morning on Day 1 was dedicated to travel and campsite prep. Our boat set sail for the island around 9:15 AM, we arrived an hour later, and after orientation, baggage claim, and some mild exploration en route to the campground, we didn’t start setting up camp until shortly after 11 AM. After a solid 30-minutes of tent setup, getting the lay of the land, and becoming acquainted with the roaming foxes near our newly established homes, we only had less than five hours left until sunset (thanks, daylight saving time).
A leisurely one-minute walk led us to our first official stop of the trip, the visitor’s center. The center is located in what’s known as the ranch house and is, in fact, the only visitor’s center on the island. The ranch house is a small building with two rooms, one with a rather fascinating interactive display of the island’s history and its inhabitants while the other contains what we like to call “old-timer” things such as an antique phone and oven. The creative floor of the building allowed visitors to travel along a timeline of events significant to the island; what a nice touch!. Of course, we couldn’t leave without signing the park’s visitor log and getting our passports stamped – it’s tradition!
From the visitor’s center, we retraced our steps back through the campground, just beyond Upper Loop, to the trailhead for Scorpion Canyon Loop. This steep trail elevated us to a wide-open plain complete with our first real look at the island’s exceptional views. While following the path, we eventually came upon a sign indicating the direction of Smuggler’s Cove. We proceeded on the trail until finally descending into the rock filled beach below. A calm sea greeted us as we happily took off our shoes and felt the refreshing chill of the Pacific Ocean slide across our feet.
After “The Tale of a Clumsy Traveler” unfolded, we continued our excursion to explore a little more of the surrounding area before heading back to camp for the night.
Day 2
Total Hiking Distance: just over 18 miles roundtrip
Overview:
Scorpion Loop → Montañon Ridge → China Pines → Follow route back to camp
Day 2, certainly our most adventurous day, began at 8:30 AM as we set out on another trek to explore deeper into the island. The sun was out in full force, beating down on us every step of the way. The usual suspects quickly came into view: large crows perched atop weathered wooden poles and island foxes rustling through the grassland, often concealed by it. The unavoidable gain in elevation on these trails meant a much broader ocean view would soon come into frame. Low and behold, a seemingly infinite horizon stretched as far as the eye could see. A couple of fully loaded cargo ships dotted the waters before it, for some reason causing me to recall the many rounds of Battleship I played as a kid.
Arriving at the same sign intersection we passed yesterday at Smuggler’s Road and Montañon Ridge, we now followed its direction towards the ridge where we could soon stand atop the highest point on the eastern side of Santa Cruz Island at 1,808 feet. An hour and 40-minutes, four miles, and one solid glute workout later, we came across another sign indicating the directions for both Prisoner’s Harbor and Scorpion. At this point, it became clear that we had arrived at the furthest accessible point upon the ridge. There we stood, staring out at the much grander views afforded to us by this peak. Rows upon rows of rolling hills slowly faded into the distance, bordered by sea and sheltered by wisps of white clouds painted across the sky. In this moment, we started to grasp the true immensity of this island.
Staying true to our initial plan, we continued on towards China Pines, making our way down the other side of the ridge along a rather frightening piece of steep trail. What once may have been a more manageable section now appeared obscured by surface runoff. This, we knew, would be our battle to climb and conquer on the way back.
Nevertheless, we continued on to behold an area that seemed to be part of an entirely different island. It was so strange. As soon as we had reached the opposite side of the ridge, the terrain, vegetation, everything, it all just changed. The coastal sage scrub and dry, open grassland in various shades of brown that we were used to became much livelier island chaparral filled with green, bushy hillsides, manzanitas, island pines, and chamise, among other plants. Morning glories with vibrant white flowers reminiscent of a phonograph horn lie scattered delicately in the foreground. What an unexpected and beautiful surprise you were, China Pines.
The original plan was to venture out to the other campground, explore Del Norte, see Prisoner’s Harbor, and return back to camp. A rather ambitious plan that we soon realized at 1:30 PM would not be wise to move forward with given that sunset was in less than four hours, we still had to make our way back to camp, and we were running low on water. Add in the fact that there was no more available drinking water for the remainder of that plan, and it became a no-brainer to turn around at China Pines.
Throughout this entire adventure, we ran into five people, one lone man on the ridge and two couples making their way to Scorpion from Del Norte. They seemed quite exhausted and eager to get to Scorpion’s water source. They also shared that continuing further to the camp was not very exciting, which certainly made us feel better about our decision to turn back. We made it back to camp by 3:30 PM, just after the fog rolled in, the wind picked up, and the temperature dropped significantly. Perfect timing to bundle up, whip up some dinner, and continue with some NSFW card games.
Exposed, strenuous, long... All of these words could be used to describe the day’s journey, but the change in scenery and new perspective of the island was definitely worth it. Plan accordingly, pay attention to the time, bring a lot of water and snacks, and enjoy.
Day 3
Total Hiking Distance: just over 9 miles roundtrip
Overview:
Cavern Point Loop → North Bluff Trail → Potato Harbor → Potato Harbor Road back to camp
Island Packers offers only one boat each day to take visitors from the island back to the mainland, and it doesn’t leave until 3:30 – 4 PM. This meant that we basically had another full day of exploration to embark upon before our departure. Yes! In truth, our final day was my absolute favorite of all because without even knowing, we saved the best trails for last (in my opinion).
I dubbed these trails “the best” because of a few factors. First, the leisurely enjoyment of the entire trek offered a nice change of pace from the longer, more challenging day we had prior. Second, the cliffside views… oh, the cliffside views. This sequence of trails was really the only hike we had taken this entire trip that led us along the edge of the island for the majority of its duration. Because of that, we hit a jackpot of stunning, unobstructed views of the ocean, discovered sea caves surrounded by beautiful teal color changes in the water, and got a peek at several islets surrounding the island. Pictures truly don't do it justice. Taking in these surroundings brought me back to walking along the coasts of Ireland and Scotland, two of my absolute favorite places (though, this was certainly not as green, in comparison). Nevertheless, it was completely breathtaking in its own right.
I highly recommend saving this section of trails for last; it certainly will not disappoint, and it allows for enough time to return back to the boat dock, relax, take some last-minute photos, play a few more rounds of NSFW games, and then head off back home. I wouldn’t have done it any other way.
Channeling my Inner Dora at the Channel Islands
See what I did there? (*wink*) How could I not recognize the uncanny resemblance to the one and only Dora the Explorer; after all, teacher, aunt, and long-standing cartoon lover here! With my handy dandy backpack, my paper map, and my walking shoes, I embarked on quests, overcame obstacles (still can’t get past that Baywatch fail), and could yell “Swiper, no swiping!” at those mischievous little island foxes trying to snag a snack or two from my stash. Although, I sure do wish I had an anthropomorphic monkey to complete the whole picture, but I guess traveling with three amazing women in exchange wasn’t completely terrible.
Channel Islands was an absolute delight, and I believe that three days was the perfect amount of time to allow us to explore the island in its entirety without feeling rushed or like we missed out on something. Perhaps an additional day could have been added to allow time for some water sports, but I’d rather save that for the summertime vibes instead of the winter chill. I could also always come back. One of the many perks about living in San Diego, the dock leading to Channel Islands is just a three-hour drive away. Looks like I may be off to explore some more of those islands soon!
